Coin Grading Scale Explained Ms70 To Goods
So, my grandfather handed me this old coin. It was a beat-up 1943 steel penny, looking like it had survived a bar fight and a trip through a washing machine. I thought it was...
So, my grandfather handed me this old coin. It was a beat-up 1943 steel penny, looking like it had survived a bar fight and a trip through a washing machine. I thought it was worthless trash. Turns out, even that battered little guy had a story to tell, and a spot on the coin grading scale.
The Great Grading Rabbit Hole
That penny sent me down a rabbit hole, my friend. I discovered an entire language for talking about a coin’s condition—from a perfect, untouched gem to a barely recognizable lump. This scale is the difference between a coin being worth gas money or a down payment on a house.
The standard scale is the Sheldon Scale, running from 1 to 70. But don't freak out; we're going to break it down into the parts that actually matter for us regular folks.
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The Royalty: MS70 Down to MS63
Let’s start at the top. A MS70 coin is absolute perfection. No scratches, no marks, perfect luster—it’s the coin that the coin gods blessed. If you have one, you’re holding a unicorn, and you should probably insure it.
Then you slip to MS69. This is just one tiny flaw away from perfection. It’s like a supermodel with a single freckle—still gorgeous, but now it’s a little more human. (And a lot cheaper.)
Dropping to MS65 is where most "uncirculated" coins live. You can see a couple of bag marks if you squint, but the shine is still screaming. For most collectors, MS65 is the sweet spot of value and beauty.
By MS63, the coin has seen things. It has more visible contact marks and a slightly duller luster. It’s still uncirculated, but it’s like a brand new car that’s been parked at the grocery store for a week—a bit dusty.
The Working Class: AU to EF
Now we leave "Mint State" and enter the world of About Uncirculated (AU). An AU50 or AU55 coin has been handled. You can see the slightest wear on the highest points—the hair on a god or the feathers on an eagle. It’s like a book that’s been read once; the spine is still tight.
Extremely Fine (XF or EF40-45) is where the coin has been actively used for a few years. All the major details are sharp, but you can see flat spots on the high points. This coin has stories, but it’s not all that beat up yet.
It’s a respectable grade. A XF45 coin often looks fantastic in a collection case, and it won’t cost you your rent.
The Battle-Scarred Veterans: VF to VG
Welcome to the Very Fine (VF20-VF35) zone. The wear is obvious now. A VF20 coin will have a strong overall design, but finer details are mushy. It's like a favorite pair of jeans—comfortable and clearly used.
Coin Grading: Understanding the Basics for Collectors - Elite Coin Group
Then we hit Fine (F12-F15). At this point, the coin has been in circulation for decades. The letters might be a bit weak, and the central design is mostly present but flat. It’s a genuine "pocket piece."
Drop to Very Good (VG8-VG10), and the coin is a survivor. The rims are still there, you can tell what it is, but the details are just ghostly outlines. Don't expect to see any eyelashes on Lady Liberty.
Rock Bottom: Good to Poor
Good (G4-G6) is the official grade for a coin that has been through the wringer. The date and mintmark must be readable, but the coin is essentially a flat disk. It’s the coin version of a stray dog—rescued and loved, but battle-worn.
Finally, you have AG-3 (About Good) and Poor-1. A Poor-1 coin is often called a "cull." You can barely read the date. It’s basically a metal slug with a hint of a design. Why would anyone want this? For a type set, sometimes a hole needs filling.
Good condition coins are often a last resort. Unless it’s a rare key date, a Good-4 coin is mostly a cheap placeholder.
So, How Does This Help You Now?
Remember that rusty steel penny? It was probably a Good-4 or lower. Worth maybe a quarter. But the lesson stuck: the grade is everything.
Next time you see a coin, don't just look at the year. Look at the shine. Look for dings. Is the hair on Washington's head sharp, or does it look like a bald cap? That’s the difference between a $5 coin and a $500 coin.
Start practicing. Pick up a modern quarter from your pocket. That’s likely an MS63 to MS65. Then find a 1980s quarter that’s been in a vending machine. That’s a solid XF40. You’re a grader now. (Don't quit your day job, but you’re getting there.)
The scale from MS70 to Good is just a story of how much a coin has lived. And honestly? The beaten-up ones often have the best tales.